What’s it like to dine on Tampa’s new riverboat cruise Craft? We took a ride.

TAMPA — We almost didn’t make the boat.

Traffic snarled through downtown Tampa and stretched onto the Lee Roy Selmon Expressway, delaying what would have been a 45-minute drive from St. Petersburg to nearly an hour and a half in stop-and-go congestion.

We had reservations for Craft, Tampa’s brand-new riverboat dinner cruise set to depart at 7:30 p.m. — and a friendly confirmation email reminding us that our purchase was nonrefundable. We’d been encouraged to arrive 45 minutes early, when we would have presumably been able to commence a leisurely boarding, river breeze in our hair, Champagne flute in hand.

Life had other plans. At 7:25 p.m., my dinner date and I swung our car into the Garrison Street parking lot, narrowly avoiding getting struck by an oncoming streetcar.

Following a quick security wand-down (the boat adheres to U.S. Coast Guard rules) and a $30 event-fueled parking fee (Tim McGraw was playing a show at nearby Amalie Arena), crew members greeted us with a quick photograph and a glass of bubbly before sending us on our way.

“Welcome to our maiden voyage!” they exclaimed as we rushed aboard.

Shortly after 7:30 p.m., we were off, out of the Ybor Turning Basin and into the sunset.

All aboard

Described as a “culinary and cocktail river journey,” Craft debuted its inaugural dinner cruise on March 15. The multimillion-dollar project is the latest endeavor from Jill and Troy Manthey, who also run several other entertainment-on-the-water concepts, including Yacht StarShip, Pirate Water Taxi and the Bay Rocket.

Designed with European riverboats in mind, the 130-foot-long vessel boasts a sleek, white silhouette with less than 11 feet of vertical clearance — meaning it can comfortably drift beneath many of Tampa’s low-lying bridges. But this ship’s real appeal lies in the coupling of an elevated culinary program, contemporary aesthetic and craft cocktails.

A trip aboard Craft includes a two-hour cruise up and down the Hillsborough River and a three-course prix-fixe meal. To start, there are lunch, brunch and dinner trips on deck, but a happy hour option may soon be in the works.

Running any kind of marine operation comes with steep operating costs — including fuel, dock rental fees and staffing — and the experience here is priced accordingly. But it still comes with a good deal of sticker shock. For two people on a Friday evening, we paid $392.59 for the boat ride and the three-course dinner — not including gratuity or drinks.

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I love a fancy boat ride as much as the next person, but the pricing gave me pause.

Would the experience be worth it?

The ride

Things were a lot smoother once we got on board.

We entered through the front of the boat, or bow, and were shown to our seats inside a narrow dining room, flanked by windows overlooking the water. Wood paneling combined with slight nautical touches lent the space a warm, industrial-chic vibe.

Servers clad in white collared shirts and gray aprons whisked back and forth between the tables, balancing martini coupes and taking orders. In an attempt to let the crew develop their sea legs, the boat wasn’t fully booked that evening, but the dining room still felt abuzz with excitement and curiosity.

Clutching our Champagne, we glided through Sparkman Channel at dusk, glitzy Harbour Island homes glowing in the evening light as a Maggie Rogers track played softly in the background. We let out a collective exhale as the chaos of the day faded away.

Over the course of the roughly two-hour cruise, the boat steered up the Hillsborough River, passing Riverwalk landmarks including the Tampa Convention Center, Armature Works and Rick’s on the River, before turning around and heading back.

Guests were encouraged to explore the boat. The Bow and Stern bar, beautifully designed and fashioned out of a vintage 1914 cruiser, provided additional seating in the rear for those looking for more of an al fresco experience.

Throughout the evening, the crew moved back and forth between the dining room, the bar and the kitchen, sometimes stepping out on the deck to alert passengers when their meals had been delivered. Guests roamed the boat taking photographs, while patrons inside chatted up their neighbors, much of the voyage illuminated by the lights of downtown Tampa.

The galley

Craft’s strongest selling point is its culinary program, and the menu here is a far cry from the goblets of white wine and dry chicken associated with most dinner cruises.

Designed by chef Allison Beasman (formerly of Edison: Food + Drink Lab), the list of contemporary New American dishes runs the gamut from a black grouper served with Little Neck clams and Pernod cream to a Wagyu coulotte with kabocha caramel and a Korean barbecue octopus. As part of the prix-fixe deal, guests are able to pick an appetizer, entree and dessert from a menu of roughly 13 different dishes.

Part of what makes the vessel stand out is the addition of an open kitchen with gas stoves, and the concept’s design allows guests to get a peek of the action if they’re on their way to the bathroom or the bar.

When it came time to order dinner, our server patiently guided us through the menu, pointing out the additional dishes we could choose if we wished to add a little something extra onto our prepaid meal. We opted for the olive oil-marinated sheep and goat’s milk cheese ($18), which was just as tasty as our server touted. It arrived in a rich red pepper-packed pisto, drizzled with a healthy glug of olive oil and served with crusty bread for dipping.

Dishes are made to order and don’t necessarily arrive at the same time as other passengers’ meals. Our appetizers showed up roughly 45 minutes into the trip, a delightful baby kale salad lightly dressed in a white balsamic vinaigrette that was toothsome with chicory and shaved carrots and plumped up with fried baby potatoes and a healthy shaving of ricotta salata. Also good was the hearty tomato bisque with roasted bone marrow and blackened cipollini onions.

For our entrees, a seared duck breast arrived fanned out over silky whipped potatoes and a creamy goat cheese fondue, framed by Brussels sprouts and fat wedges of roasted golden beets. Though the duck was cooked a little past the requested temperature, it was still delicious. A plate of sweet and sour braised short ribs packed powerhouse flavors that paired beautifully together, all served over a sweet and sticky coconut rice sidling bok choy and juicy tangerine segments.

For dessert, we paired a perfect few scoops of pistachio ice cream with a chocolate espresso dacquoise, an intensely rich and sweet layer cake featuring a tart blackberry curd and creamy dark chocolate ganache.

The fine print

The water was calm that night and the entire service appeared well-rehearsed — absent of any major hiccups and even graceful at moments. As far as I could tell, there were no seasick passengers or man-overboard scenarios, which felt like some kind of success, though I did wonder what type of balance or physical dexterity would be required to maneuver trays of wobbling martini glasses over stormier seas.

Though tiered pricing exists for Craft — for different seats, times of day or days of the week — there’s no overlooking that a trip aboard the vessel isn’t cheap.

With neither drinks nor gratuity included in the booking price, if you’re looking to enjoy the evening with a couple of libations, it’s going to cost you. The add-ons can feel excessive, from a $50 king crab leg tray to the preboarding photograph crew members try to sell you at the end of the night. A suggested gratuity is presented on your bill, based on the total sales tallied for the table that evening, including the cost of the original reservation.

Some changes are bound to be expected as the company assesses guest interest and feedback. Even after the first week, it appears some prices have been slightly adjusted. Dinner for two people seated in the dining room with window seats now comes to $369.89 after taxes and marine fees, while weekend brunches for the same seats start at $89.95 per person.

It’s hard to imagine making dining here a regular occurrence, but for a special occasion, an evening aboard Craft can be a real delight.

Next time, though, I’ll remember to leave myself plenty of time to get there.

If you go

For Craft reservations and information, go to crafttampa.com/. The riverboat departs from the dock at 603 Channelside Drive, Tampa.